Lindey’s - In the Beginning

169 E. Beck St. Columbus, OH (614) 228-4343

 

WHERE:
Lindey’s is Columbus’ eternally hip bistro located in historic German Village. Make some time to check out the neighborhood surrounding the restaurant when you go. This place offers a business-residential mix with lots of wobbly brick roads that wind around exquisitely elephantine homes from the 1800s. The buildings are big, but it’s all close quarters with tiny (or non-existent) yards and iron gates. Like any German Village destination, Lindey’s is just off the curb and gorgeous with gothic appeal.

WHO:

We did mention eternally hip, right? In nearly 30 years of operation, Lindey’s has entertained several generations of the well-heeled-NOW-crowd. Wedding proposals, business deals, fights for tables—it all happened here.
As for the restaurant’s staff, they’re a gracious crew of consummate professionals, always in motion with purposeful, powerful strides.

WHEN:

You’ll never find Lindey’s deserted. At noontime, it’s buzzing with Columbus’ power-players—lots of handshakes and slick Italian suits. It’s all money, honey, and something’s happening at every white-clothed table. In the evenings, the crowd turns more social. Lindey’s relaxes, and there’s more of a chance to take in the high ceilings, handsome woodwork and large-scale decorating scheme. While relaxed, the place is always awake; on the right night, the buzz is accompanied by the sounds of live jazz. Their breathtaking terrace and patio fill up seconds after opening for service, so you’ll want reservations, no matter who you are.

WHAT:
Food wise, the Lindey’s menus offer something for any palate. For the stand-by, signature dish crew there’s no need to go past the Filet Mignon or the Rack of Lamb—both are 8 oz. and pack a succulent punch. The same menu sports a variety of world culinary influences exampled by everything from seasonal fish to pastas, steaks, salads and flatbreads.

THE TEST:

Lindey’s rolls out some of its most complex flavor combinations in the first courses. An order of Ahi Tuna Tartare might seem to be a straightforward offering: raw fish. Not at this joint. Perched atop the pile of bright pink tuna are two vertical sails of gaufrette potatoes (an intricately cut potato chip). With a spike of neon green wasabi and a pool of tamarind vinaigrette, the resulting appetizer is both rich and savory.
The same appealing complexity can be seen in the Honey Glazed Duck that is lightly brushed with orange blossom honey and served with red cabbage confit and soft polenta. The Block Island Swordfish also refuses denial. Its maple and garlic sweet potato gratin accompaniment tighten up an already knockout dish. On the flip side, The Prince Edward Island Mussel appetizer takes an appropriately more simplistic approach with equal success —sautéed pancetta is finished with sage, cream and sherry.

Much ado has been made about Lindey’s Rack of Lamb. It’s made the joint a destination point for many diners. The lamb is carefully sliced and pan seared with red wine veal jus just before being fanned out around a bed of addictive garlic mashed potatoes. The fried leek garnish adds a comfortable touch to an otherwise eye-opening dish.

Perhaps the lamb has a bigger reputation, but it’s the Hunan Glazed Pork Chops that truly wow. We’re talking slap-your-mama tender and juicy. The glaze takes a backseat only to the breathtaking texture of the pork that sports a charred branding from the grill.

In the end, there is always only one closer: the infamous Post Mortem. Trumpets play a funeral march in your head while eating this godly creation of gooey brownie, premium coffee flavored ice cream and a dousing of Kahlua hot fudge.